Monster Mixed Route Established Near Canmore

By Michael Frank on January 15th, 2013

Will Gadd, Will Mayo, Pat Delaney, and John Freeman collectively developed a radical new mixed climbing route called Nophobia (M11/5.12+) in the Ghost area near Canmore, Alberta. Two in the party successfully climbed the route. It’s huge, and has been in development since 2009, in part because it requires a stout effort just to get to the area. “It [requires] really serious 4×4 sports action,” Gadd said. “I have about a 50 percent success rate on trips into this area of the Ghost; creek crossing that result in frozen brake drums…mud, getting stuck one way or the other, fully half the battle is just getting to the place.” The other half — working the route, which saw dozens of visits when you add up the entire party’s collective efforts. In sum, Nophobia consisted of a total of five pitches up to M11, including a 50-foot roof and a combined 150 feet of overhang in an area that Will Mayo referred to as “the biggest sport mixed cave in the world.” Via Rock & Ice.

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