Climbing Denali Solo in January
By Rocky Thompson on January 3rd, 2011
Lonnie Dupre of Minnesota is attempting to become the first person to complete a solo climb of Denali in the month of January, when conditions are at their worst. Winds can hit over 100mph, and of the 9 expeditions that have gone up the mountain in winter, only 16 people have made it to the top. He’s currently hanging out in Talkeetna waiting for the weather to improve enough for a flight. Between Lonnie and Erik Larsen, it would seem Northern Minnesota is the new ‘hip’ place for polar explores to be from – the Scandinavian countries have had their day.
It bums me out a bit when people make this sort of foolish run. My dad has failed to summit Denali twice, both times because he and his team had to turn back due to an injury in another party who was ill prepared – one of them a solo cliimber who was passed out face down in the snow. They saved his life, and of course do not resent the decision, but it is a disappointment that they had to turn back from their summit approach.
On one hand, this is a terrible idea, because you have no help, obviously. I hope he plans on paying for his own SAR mission. On the other hand, how many expeditions (like your father’s) have been held back by weak links in the chain? Maybe one stronger climber is evenly-matched versus the potential drag a larger group can be. Interesting. Godspeed man. Rocky let us know what happens, yeah?